A while ago, I posted that I was getting some serious static/noise from my JVC KDSH909. The problem was the Bose amp.
I had just hooked it up with the wiring harness and although the sound quality was better, there was noise. I bypassed the amp this weekend by just putting a jumper wire between the correct wires down at the amp's connector. The noise problem has completely gone away. I highly recommend bypassing the Bose amp. :thumbs up:
i have a pioneer d3 and planning to get a component set and an extra pair for the rear what would i have to do......? run all new speaker wires from the component set to a 4ch amp and then to the 4ch rca's to the head unit right. is this correct or is there an easier way so i dont have to run new wires and just hook it up to the existing wires
Has anyone though of purchasing a used bose amp off ebay, and removing the connector from the amp, and jumping the wires on the connector, then you simply have to plug it into your factory harness. With this method the bose sub will not work, but you will have direct connection from the radio to the speakers.
The amp under the seat will be left with nothing plugged into it.
Hey all, 1st post, quick question and sorry to intrude but I cant start a new thread yet and this seemed the most relevant to my problem.
I just finishd installing the AVIC-D3 a few hours ago, turnd it on and everything workd fine except no audio. Did my research and found that its due to the amp. Rather then bypass it does anyone know if i could fine a controller or some other type of unit i could just hook into it untill i upgrade my speakers/amp down the road, even if its imperfect audio I can deal with it for the time being.
Hey all. Wow, this tread has attracted a lot of interest! Ok, I need a little more help, if possible.
I have a Base RSX with an aftermarket UH. It is already wired up for an AudioBahn tube subwoofer located in the trunk. Currently, the Audiobahn works very well. In terms of wires already in the trunk I have
- 1 RCA wire (from HU to Audiobahn)
- 1 Remote wire (blue)
- 1 Ground wire (black)
- 1 power wire (red)
I need more trunk space so I recently bought, from a Type S, the "under the seat amp" and the "rear amp/sub/casing" combo. Since I have all the wiring already in the trunk, I was hoping I could simply not even consider installing and wiring the "under the seat sub" and connect everything directly to the "rear amp". Can I?
If so, to what do I connect the remote lead? I only see 4 wires at the rear sub: power, ground, left and right (or most likely positive and negative). If I do not connect the remote, will the amp drain my battery over time?
And finally: just to be clear about the RCA wire: The "inside" is what and the outside is what? (right or left or positive or negative?). Thanks for your help and patience.
How exactly do you get the wires out of the harness without damaging them? I have a removal tool that I have used on previous harnesses but its not working.
EDIT: NM Used a small flat head screwdriver and they popped right out.
if i want to keep the bose woofer when i get my headunit, please correct me if im wrong...
i would leave those harnesses plugged into the amp, removing almost all wires but the imput wires, ie 7,8,9,10, 20,21,22,23 stays in the harness.
then you remove wires 1,2,12,13,14,15,25,26 from the harness.
now splice the wires you just removed into the wires still in the harness, making sure they match up with the chart above.
this way your aftermarket HU is connected directly to the speakers, then the bose sub still gets its signal from the 8 imput wires that we spliced into.
is there anything wrong with doing this? like will my headunit blow up or something.
Ya instead of cutting the wires, I took them out of the harness and labeled them. This way if I ever get rid of the car all I have to do is take the T-taps off tape the area up that was tapped on, and then put the wires back in the harness, and then the bypass is no more.
I was trying to make the uninstall as easy as possible, that's why I was interested in the harness.
I modified the T-taps to allow me to keep the pins for the harness on the wire while still tapping into both wires, it worked out well.
My subs are 2-12' Alpine type Rs + a lightning audio cap
I used to have everything in my last car before getting it put into the rsx and i think it used to sound better, only difference was in my last car i also had some alpine type s door speakers and all the speakers were ran through the deck I belive..
When I had the shop install everything into the rsx they told me that they were running the speakers through the stock bose amp still, and that it was better off that way then running it through the alpine deck. my alpine amp is running my type Rs just like before.. anyways to make a long story short i feel like im not getting enough outta my system, I know they turned something down on my alpine amp because they said it was set to high, im wondering if they did that to try to level out for the amount of volume being produced from the bose amp/speakers vs the subs.
Would I be better off to cut out the bose amp and run the speakers off the deck and find out what they turned down on my amp? If so do the instuctions above apply to me??
they set it to high as in the output high or the gain high? if so your subs should always be set to a low output so that might be why your not getting a good sound from your subs. also what did you used to have your subs in? it also can be the car itself not all sounds travel the same in cars.
My subs are 2-12' Alpine type Rs + a lightning audio cap
I used to have everything in my last car before getting it put into the rsx and i think it used to sound better,
then in the rsx, both were hatchback style vehicles..
When I had the shop install everything into the rsx they told me that they were running the speakers through the stock bose amp still, and that it was better off that way then running it through the alpine deck. my alpine amp is running my type Rs just like before.. anyways to make a long story short i feel like im not getting enough outta my system, I know they turned something down on my alpine amp because they said it was set to high, im wondering if they did that to try to level out for the amount of volume being produced from the bose amp/speakers vs the subs.
anyways,
after doing some research and staying up till 4 in the morning a couple nights surfing on here I decided that it would be best for me to cut out the bose amp and run the speakers off the deck and find out what they turned down on my amp, so this afternoon I went ahead and unbolted the seat and amp and followed the wire diagram posted on another thread for bypassing the amp. http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=46972
I thought that by doing this my deck would then power my speakers, I connected the following
I sliced all the correct wires off the clamp plugging into the bose amp and soltered them together and left all the other wires as is. i then tested all my new connections to make sure they were correct and they are good.
I then turned on my stereo and the volume issue is even worse then before, all i could hear was the alpine subs and they work just the same as before nothing was changed there but I now have nothing outta the speakers, I then thought to try turning off the subs on my deck and then i noticed that if I have it right cranked I can sorta hear music from the speakers and I do have control on the deck to be able to fade from front to back left to right...its like the speakers have nothing powering them but they still work loud enough to whisper.. am I missing another connection somewhere or is there something im not doing right?
wrong harness. they put in the type-s harness.. you need the standard 98+harness. youre basically trying to power speakers from the RCA output on your stereo.
sorry to bring this back from the dead but i decided to do the bypass today and everything works but i cant get my front left speaker to play..can anyone help?
Ive got similar problems...I bought a harness for "Honda 1998-2002" but it has no remots wire. The only blue wire is power antenna. My deck turns on and my sub hits but no sounds in my speakers. Did I get the right harness? How do I get the bose amp on without a remote without cutting into the main harness
I just successfully bypassed my Bose amp. Because my mono alpine amp kept shutting off under higher volumes. I am hoping this solves the problem as soon as i hook my amp back up. All you have to do is just follow the schematics with the corresponding color coded key. Be careful because there are solid green and a light green wires, don't confuse them. I also found that there are two brown wires, don't confuse them, the smaller brown wire was the right one to use.
The result, my highs are much louder and the speakers do not distort, I cant wait to replace my speakers in the car!
wtf. i have no noise w/ bestkits bose amp integration harness. no whine, pops, hiss, static, buzzing. nothing but music. has anyone tried the bose amp integration harness that has rca's instead of speaker wires?
trying to figure out how the hell to wire this.... i have a avic d3 and i have the metra amp integration harness. the avic harness has no outputs for front speakers to connect to the metra harness. so what am i connecting to what?
I want to keep the stock bose amp and all stock speakers going
i have a question im just bought a pioneer DEH-P6000UB but beyond the point with the metra harness do i have to bypass factory amp or will it connect so i dont have 2?
the metra 70-1725 harness is the integration harness that will use the rca's from the HU to feed signal to the bose amp.
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