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Old 04-18-2019, 09:34 PM   #1
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Fix Your Alignment at Home

This is a no nonsense no BS Guide to how I've fixed my DC5 Steering. I've had diabolical times, spun twice in a straight line, had crap Bump Steer, horrible Torque Steer and no one to tell me simply how to fix it all.

So you've lowered your DC5 or similar steered car and you have rubbish steering. I have the luxury of a set of Scales (not pictured) and when I got the Corner Weights to where I wanted it was time to fix the Toe In gain problem. I'm here to show in pics how to fix it and I do mean fix it.

Firstly what happens when we lower our DC5's - well the front wheels develop a lot of toe in.

When I purchased the DC5, me being from the old school of thinking flat arms are the way to go promptly found out when I spun twice that it wasn't.
So I got my money out and purchased two triple adjustable Arms from Hard Race in Sydney, a Rack Raiser from Tegiwa in the UK and a Delrin Rack Slider from SHG in North America (SHG also race a DC5 with a Lady Driver - Theresa, very successfully) then got to work and set up a Stringline (see pics). I've already installed Roll Centre lowering Ball Joints adn everything is adjustable in the arms front and rear.

See pics. I've seen people make an easy mistake with the rear stringing. Set the String at Wheel Hub Height. Do the front first - just make it even on both sides then measure between the Strings where it wraps around the steel pipes and set the rear strings to the same width. Others have just set their string to the same measurement from the wheel face not knowing the rear wheel track is narrower than the front. This not always the case but with my FWD cars I always add 20mm Concentric Spacers to the front as all that matters is the front end in FWD cars must be awesome under Brakes, Turn In and the Front tyres have got to stick when I mash that Throttle down. After winning all my Championships and being able to out Trail Brake anyone and blowing the Track Records apart it's a winning must have thing.

Put car on Jack Stands. Wheels off. Install the Tegiwa Rack Raiser. Install the SHG Delrin Rack Slider (you can do that in the car (U-Tube it). Set the Hard Race Arms about half way along the Threads when you install them and place the Rod Ends on top (THIS IS SO IMPORTANT) of the Coil Over Arms. The Arm Angle needs to be 5.5 to 7 degrees. Mine are at 5.5.

Put the car back on the ground (chock the rear wheels). Step up onto the area behind the Head Lights and bounce the car up and down for a few minutes to settle the front end.

Set the Toe Out - yep Toe Out at about 1.5 to 2mm Toe Out by winding the arms either way - with two small Shifters - you'll soon work out which way to turn. Jump back on the front, bounce, remeasure and get close to even. Check the rear hasn't moved then go back and recheck the front again. You can get your Alignment Guy to even it or reduce the Toe later but if your racing those settings are where I'm at and they win all the time. The Toe changes that happen with our cars are a pain but pay attention and focus on this simple set up and fix and you'll be winning like me. You'll be so hot at the Track they'll be pouring cold water on you!
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