Well, my Rsx had a code related to the knock sensor. After multiple searches on here and on other forums, I couldn't find a DIY thread with pictures. I also discovered that some individuals had trouble locating the sensor; in addition on how to actually replace the sensor. Now, the haynes manual requires you to remove the intake manifold. With a little time and patience, the method below worked on my type s. I thought this was easier than taking the manifold off, but its up to you.
The knock sensor is located up underneath the intake manifold bracket.
Note: The base model uses a 1 1/16 inch deep socket. The sensor for the Type S uses 15/16 inch.
Tools needed
1/2" wrench
1 1/16" deep socket
6" extension
jack and jack stands
sensor part # for type S: 30530-PRB-A01
1. First, disconnect the battery terminal. You can see the connector between the space on top of the intake manifold. I slipped my hand underneath where i could disconnect the plug. In the pic below, the actual sensor is already out.
2. Jack up the car and set up your stands. Now go underneath the car and the sensor should be near the starter. The plastic part on mine literally disintegrated when I pulled the plug.
3. With the deep socket & six inch extension, it should give you enough room to loosen it from up top(between core support space and intake manifold).
4. Unscrew the old one out and screw the new one in. Torque the sensor to specs.
5. Plug up the connector, reconnect your battery terminal and you're done. It took me about 45 minutes to do this including the trips to the parts store for extra tools.
i cant even do an oil change in 10 min. please tell me how you take the IM off in 10 min considering you need to remove the arms from below and deal with those pita studs
I just got the car and thought this method was easier. I'm not used to taking a manifold off and etc just to get to sensors. Although using the common method would of been a good excuse to get that Hondata intake manifold gasket.
I just did this last week and wanted to say that while I was glad I didn't have to take off the IM to do this, it was an absolute pain in the ass to get to the knock sensor from underneath. I was finally able to get the right angle to take it off, but it was difficult with just one person.
The plug on my old knock sensor came right off when I unplugged it, so that probably made it a little more difficult to get my wrench to find it. Still, was able to get it all done without having to deal with the IM, so thanks!
When you drive and the light is just flashing does that mean sensor or does that mean the connector not on properly. Light flashes constantly. It only started happening after I got car back from getting an engine wash.What do you guys think.
lol... light flashing is really bad compare to a solid light. It depends on what kind of code you are throwing, just because its blinking constantly, doesnt mean its a knock sensor problem o.o
my check engine light keeps turning on and off with this knock sensor code as i ride the car for awhile or on highways. Does this mean my knock sensor needs to be replace? or just a short circuit? loose connection?
i just replaced my knock sensor and it is still doing the same thing... turning on and off while driving... i think i might have a short somewhere but idk yet
okay so now my car is blinking the maintenance required indicator... also i used up half a tank of gas within 80 miles of riding the car with that knock sensor code on... can someone help? know whats going on?
Used this method yesterday to change out my knock sensor. Hardest part was getting the top bolt off the bracket. When I went to disconnect my old knock sensor, this happened.
Guess it was time for a new one. I wasn't getting a code or anything, either.
yeah, after trying this... i dont recommend this DIY to anyone... the time you will spend fidgeting and trying to get the wrench or socket around the sensor and then actually getting it off is way to much... i feel like i almost took longer doing it this way then i would have just taking off the manifold, which isnt that hard btw. just my 2 cents
I don't see why not...I mean I did the entire replacement by just jacking it up and removing the front bumper and going from underneath! Just like the OP stated. So I don't see if there is any difference unless the bottom of a JRSC is lower then stock or even an RBC.
I need to change mine lol. I think its just loose or something because sometimes the CEL comes on but after a while it goes off. Then it just comes back to troll me :troll:
My check engine light is still on for the knock sensor. I had the negative terminal on the battery removed while replacing it, and the CEL came back on in about 10 minutes. Anyone have some suggestions on what could be wrong?
why would you even bother taking the im in the first place ...it takes me about 45 to an hour to remove the im but then again I take a beer break for every bolt I remove lol
Tried this just this past weekend. I don't think this works on the Base....the manifold dips down too far to get the socket in. I presume that the the S and the SI, you could do it as the manifold isn't as deep. A buddy of mine and I tried the DIY method for an hour and a half, gave up and pulled the manifold and was done in an hour 10, first time doing it.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum
29.7M posts
179.3K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, K24 swaps, turbo kits, and more!