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***General Questions For All Motor***

187K views 1K replies 219 participants last post by  all<dc5 
#1 ·
Typical rules apply here. No post whoring, this is not a chat thread.

The types of questions that belong here are the simple single response type of questions.

If you have a question asking which cam is better or how much power will I make please search your question first. Chances are it has been answered.

Ask away.
 
#898 · (Edited)
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Ummmm....So you CAN run a race header, and #4 reflash together with out running too lean??? I thought this was a big no no?:dontknow:

I have a 02....with a K20Z1 swap. which is an 05, I believe. My mods are the Re-flash, E, Img, and Cai.....Stock intake man..

I've been searching, and I'm getting mixed answers. Is it only on the K20a2,....2002-2004?
 
#4 ·
I am currently running stock 2.5' exhaust pipe and 2.5' DC muffler with deleted resonator.. Its giving me a bad look and Im getting Skunk2 3' muffler and 3' resonator and 3' highflow cat... If i replace my stock cat with a highflow 3' cat and 3' pipe would I have to buy any special o2 sensors or adapters?
 
#5 ·
Well, first the stock piping isn't 2.5". To answer your question, you shouldn't have to. The only reason people need o2 extensions is for a race header. Though I'm sure that whatever hi-flow Cat you go with will either come with the necessary parts or they will tell you that you need something. But I haven't heard of anyone needing any extensions or adapters for hi-flow cats.
 
#6 ·
Ok so this is my current N/A setup on my 2002 Type S

Injen SRI,ESMM, ITR header/gutted cat, 2005-06 cat back exhaust.

Now my question is in the very near future I will be adding the Hondata reflash #4. Should I worry about my exhaust setup being too restrictive for the ITR header/gutted cat and hondata #4 reflash? Would I benefit from replacing my 05-06 axle back with something larger like a universal 60mm or 65mm axle back exhaust? Even though my current 05-06 midpipe is a 2.25 to allow for less restrictive exiting of exhaust gases with the newly added Hondata reflash# 4???

Any input on this would be much appreciated.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I would need to have a flange welded from the current midpipe to the larger axle back if I were to go bigger???
 
#7 ·
An axle back isn't going to do much, if anything, considering it's the entire piping that is going to be cause of any problems. To answer your question if it's going to be too restrictive...that's subjective. If you're worried about power, then yes. Otherwise, no it will be fine. You'll probably feel a difference with the reflash, sure, but not as much as you would with a proper header/exhaust.

Ya, I'm pretty sure you need a bigger flange welded on as well. Honestly, if you're going to get an axle back, just get the mid-pipe as well. Then you don't have to do any welding and you circumvent any restriction issues with the piping. After that it's all header and cat restriction.
 
#34 ·
Pistons

Hey just a quick ? I want to do an all motor build but still have my car be able to drive daily i was wondering what kind of compression ratio i should go with and what other parts should be added to make a decent amount of power but still driveable im not talking 300 whp i just want a decent set up thanks
 
#35 ·
12.5:1 or lower and you'll be fine, but really you don't have to up your compression. You won't see much of a gain from it on a typical motor build. The return on investment is fairly low for your average build but to someone going all out every pony counts. either way, it's up to you. I'm just giving you a heads up that upping the compression will probably not yield much power compared to other things you can do without going into the depths of the motor. It's kind of one of those things you do if you are already tearing the motor apart completely.
 
#37 ·
thanks Kevin. So if you believe i should leave the compression the way it is unless i'm going for every last horsepower what mods do you think i should do to have a decently fast but still daily drivable car thanks for your info
Well, really I'd say just do your typical bolt on + cams really. You should set up a power goal though and do some more research as well, there is tons of info out there. On your typical bolt on + cams setup though expect to see around 220-240, depending on the dyno of course (I'm estimating off typical dynojet results). Your results may vary (lower or higher). Best thing you could do though is find a place you like, doesn't matter if they tune or not, and get a baseline dyno run there. Then everytime you want to compare results make sure you go to the same place. Doesn't matter where you tune, only where you compare.
 
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