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Track *Chat* Part III

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iii part track
63K views 656 replies 37 participants last post by  Koopa Troopa 
#1 ·
Continue.
 
#9 ·
Nah. GT-R countersteer is better. Cause of the way the AWD system functions, the car drives like a very oversteery FWD once power starts going to the front. That thing will be loads of fun once he puts his OS Giken 1 way in the front (has a Kaaz 2 way in the back right now but he's thinking of switching to a OS Giken 1.5 to match the OS Giken front diff).
 
#13 · (Edited)
but you have crappy gas and naziesque carb and emissions control crap to deal with!

(just trying to make myself feel better, cries in spanish)


edit:
for the record I also hate you for the canyon roads you guys have. Big Tahunga is awesome!
 
#12 ·
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showpost.php?p=54469802&postcount=188

My attempt to run 2" brake ducts. Not the best routing but better than nothing. Ran the passenger side next to the crank pulley behind the fender liner and strapped the rest on the control arm. Driver side I had to route it around around the CAI and behind the fender liner and then strapped the rest to the control arm. It's pretty much aimed at the ball joint but hopefully enough fresh air hits the rotor behind it.
 
#14 ·
I've since given up on buying RE71Rs. Makes no sense to spend money on them when they're no longer competitive tires here due to the Japanese gymkhana tire arms race going on recently.

Tire Rack has a special on RS3s right now, so I think RS3s are gonna be ordered. Think I'll do 245/40/17 in the front and 225/45/17 in the rear.
 
#23 ·
Is it possible to fit 245/40/17 on the back without rolling the quarter panels? Right now I have -1.5° of rear camber and they'll be mounted on a 17x8.5 +50. I'd prefer to not roll fenders and quarter panels if it's not necessary. Prolly gonna buy 245/40/17 for the front. Was gonna put 225/45/17 on the rear, but I'd prefer to run a square set up for the street so I can rotate tires to extend their life. I've still got those 17x7.5 RPF1s, so I think I'll just mount some cheap 215/45/17s on those to use in the back for gymkhana events.
 
#29 · (Edited)
my buddy is running 8.5 +50 rear 245/40, we had to roll his arch. he now has a 5mm spacer on there. The car sits so good.




Im also on a 8.5 +50 rear but with a 225/45 (track use). Main thing is it clears the arm just fine. My guess is a minor roll would be needed for a 225 too as the inner lip seems to point downwards on these cars, mine have a slight pull





both cars have about -1.5 rear camber.

back at the track on wednesday too, cant wait
 
#24 ·
On an 8.5 +50 you've got more to worry about rubbing on the inside. I was running 235's on a 9 +35 and had some witness marks on the inside. No issue on the fender though, iirc was running -1.7 camber
 
#28 ·
A x8.5 +50 is going to sit on the rear trailing arm. We ran x9 +54 on the rear of my car and it was scraping the rear trailing arm, and the 8.5 +50 is going to set in another 2mm. It's going to be difficult to get away with that wide of a tire without rolling the quarter panels...

And yes, I have ITR hubs on my car.
 
#32 ·
On the ITR, you can get 17x9 +54 to clear the rear trailing arm with enough negative camber. Unfortunately though, most people probably don't have enough front camber to really justify running enough rear camber and maintaining a good handling balance. Other aspects of the car could be changed to compensate but doesn't seem worth it.
 
#34 ·
rear is basically double wishbone in the RSX... front is more important in my book, especially in a FWD car
 
#35 ·
Rear of the DC5 is multilink trailing arm. It always has been despite Honda calling it wishbone since like 1985. I found a Honda press release from the '80s where it was showcasing the wishbone rear suspension on the new and improved Civic versus the old strut suspension of the Civic CVCC. The only difference between the two was Honda added three links to the new Civic. My friend brought up a good point when he said that any car can have trailing arm suspension, but only exotic cars have wishbone suspension. Calling it wishbone was just an obvious marketing ploy considering the fact that you kinda have to have at least one wishbone for it to be wishbone suspension. There's not a huge difference between the DC5 rear suspension and the 8th gen Civic rear, but Honda decided to call that multilink instead of wishbone. What's my point? Don't take the word of car manufacturers because their decisions are controlled by their marketing and legal divisions.

Back to the wheels. I have 225/45/17 RE71Rs mounted on 8j +50s right now and they clear just fine. I have plenty of room between the wheel and rear trailing arm right now, but that pinch seam in the wheel arch is massive and I maybe have 5mm clearance between that and the tire. I'm gonna break out a tape measure and then head on over to a wheel calculator site this weekend, but it's looking like I'll either have to stick with 225s or buy a fender roller :(
 
#36 ·
the important part is short upper arm and longer lower arm for camber gain on compression. I guess strictly speaking double wishbone is something like the s2k has at A shaped arms. In my opinion it doesn't really matter what it looks like... I mean the DC5 doesn't even have a separate toe arm. in my book for something to be a multilink it needs at least 4 arms (upper, lower, toe, traction rod)


back to wheels
Is there a reason why you're so against rolling fenders? its really easy..
 
#45 ·
'98 DB8 ITR? Doesn't '98 make it a DC2? And here you were hating on DC2's saying the DC5 is better, haha
 
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