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Old 01-04-2015, 02:20 PM   #1
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### Audio FAQ (1/4/15) ### FAQ -- FAQ -- FAQ -- FAQ -- FAQ -- FAQ -- FAQ -- FAQ ###

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This FAQ serves to answer the most commonly asked questions in this forum. Every time it is updated the date in the title will change. This FAQ should answer about 70% of the questions fielded out there. Feel free to PM me or email me if you have any questions of if something should be added here.

Another General RSX FAQ is available here: Linky

DISCLAIMER: All modifications done by the user is at their own risk. Neither ClubRSX, its moderators, posters, or members are liable for any risk. The instructions given here are on an as-is basis where the user takes their own responsibility for their own work. Any damage done to the user's car is at their own risk. Instructions here are to be taken as "suggestion" and not as a recommendation.


Q: Where can I get the Helm's Service Manual for the RSX


Q: What are good places to buy from on the net?
A: there are a lot of great places around. I will post the places that have had the best recomendations from people on this site. I will not post popular places that have given people a lot of problems.

Multimedia express
Woofers ETC
Sonic Electronix (Locotony Recomends for mainstream products)
Audio Warehouse
Parts Express (Locotony, recommends for DIY raw speakers, also a good place to get various parts such as grills, dampening material, connecters, etc.
Sound Solutions Audio (Great audio products from more Boutique brands geared toward the SPL crowd)
darvex.com Great place for wire and accessories
knukonceptz. Another great place for RCA cables and wire

Also a great place to look at various items is Crutchfield . I personally would not buy from them other than head units because they are a bit expensive (full msrp on most items), but as far as getting an idea and comparing a bunch of main stream items they are great.


Q: Where can I learn information about the basics of Car Audio
A: www.bcae1.com is the best resource on the web for a car audio noob, before asking some silly question like what is a crossover please check out this site and you will at least learn basic terminology. More advanced people may want to go to www.the12volt.com as they have some more advanced information esp on relays.


Q: How do I install a Head Unit/CD player?
A: this has been covered many times. The best solution is to use the main install guide on the site which can be obtained here: ClubRSX guide


Q: How do I add an iPod to my RSX?
A: Few ways:
Tutorial: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=191890 and http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=229260

More 3rd party solutions:

Paul Aerodeck's Type S radio Mod (requires soldering)


Q: How do I install a compustar 2 way alarm?
A: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=172184


Q: Where can I find a list for each state for cell phone, LCD screen and PDA usage in the car?
A: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=230576


Q: What the hell is an Amp, Ohm, Volt?
A: Go here young paddawah, http://ohmslaw.com/ohmslaw.htm


Q: What wire harness will I need to hook up an aftermarket CD player?
A: For the Base RSX you will need a wire harness for a Honda 1998 or newer vehicles Metra part # 70-1721. If you have the type-s (Bose system) you need the 70-1725 integration harness that works to integrate the Bose with an aftermarket HU's RCA outputs, You can still use the 70-1721 if you plan on bypassing the Bose or are going all aftermarket from the get go.


Q: How to I get a power wire into the car without drilling a hole through the firewall?
A: Through the grommet in the glovebox. You can follow step by step directions in this thread
A: Another way is through the hood release grommet here: LINK


Q: I don't live near a walmart or other places that sell polyfil/polyfill. Where can I get this stuff?
A: Any Craft or fabric store should have polyfill Hancock fabrics has 8oz bags for 2.99.


Q: I just installed my new HU. When turned on, the radio plays fine, but when I put a CD in, it shows it is playing but I get no sound. Any suggestions?
A: Connect the remote turn on (blue/white) wire on the harness supplied with the new aftermarket HU to the power antenna (blue) wire on the Honda harness you purchased. This should take care of your problem.


Q: How do I burn MP3's to a CD for my MP3 playing headunit?
A: MueveloNYC wrote the answer HERE


Q: I have a Type S and want to add an aftermarket cd player. how will I make it fit in that space?
A: Of course an aftermarket CD player is not going to fit exactly where the 6 disc changer is, there is just no way one will work with the stock faceplate. in order to make it friendly to an Aftermarket Head Unit (CD player) you will need a new face plate. for this you have a few options.
1: the Base Acura RSX has a faceplate that has a standard DIN sized HU in it. the Face plate will fit exactly where the type S does but has a rectangular cut out that is 2 DIN high (space for 2 standard sized CD players). this allows you to either use a 2 DIN unit, or get a pocket with a door that will go under the CD player.
both of these used to be obtained from the Club RSX store, however that has changed.... its now to the acura dealership. the face plate (Acura part # 77261S6MA01ZA ) and the drawer (Acura part # 77280S6MA01ZA). both can be had for around 80.

2: an aftermarket faceplate can be obtained from various retailers and a good deal of mass sound shops (best buy, Fry's). the two companies that make the units are Scosche and Metra. they look slightly different though both will do the job. both hold the HU in place and have a pocket (no door) under the cd player. both can be found for about $20.

American International also makes a dash kit that seems to be one of the best looking for a double din Head Unit


Q: How do I replace the 2 front door speakers?
A: Check out this detailed post


Q: I have a bose system that I got from a type S and want to install it in my Base RSX. How do I do it?
A: Faintreality has a great thread on how


Q: Do I need to bypass the bose amp if I install an aftermarket CD player?
A: you do not need to, but it is suggested. although people have run their CD players through the bose system with no problems, Torinalth being one of them, it is still not the best of situations. you might have problems or might never have problems, it just comes down to how much time do you want to spend.
If you just want to put it in and leave it then by all means, go for it. though the optimal situation would be to run speaker wire from the speaker leads on the CD player to the individual speakers them selves. this would make the best transfer of power and signal from the CD player to the speakers.

Q: What if I want to bypass the amp?


Q: What is the impediance (ohm rateing) of the stock Bose speakers?
A: all the bose speakers in the car carry a 4 OHM load, just like most Aftermarket speakers. Replaceing the stock speakers will work as long as the Aftermarket replacements have a 4 OHM rating.


Q - Help my sub keeps cutting out and I dunno why. It could be the amp or the sub but I have no idea. Sometimes it works at low volume then cuts out as I raise it. Or sometimes it plays some bass then stops, then plays bass again. HELP!
A - There's a few scenarios, but try all of the suggestions here:


Q - Where can I run the power wire for my amp?
A - This is a nice little guide made by a member that will outline one way of doing it. Click here for the guide.


Q: How do I install & wire new components?
A: Check out this detailed post


Q: What are the wires that are needed for a Tachometer to be installed?
A: Here is a post by MUXX that has all the wires needed, I can not help further but will adjust this post as people get me more information.


Q: What size speakers would I need to get if I were to replace the stock speakers?
A: the Short answer for this question is that all 4 speakers in the car are 6.5" with 1" tweeters in the dash.

this is a little guide to possible problems that could change the way you end up going with a speaker replacement.

There is a small problem with just going out and buying any 6.5" and expecting it to work. the rear speakers have just about always gone in with little to no problems in most cases. the fronts are a little harder to get in at times.

Because speakers do not have a standardized set of constraints they have to build to, most builders make the speaker to perform a certain way, not fit perfectly. some speakers are deeper than others, some speakers can be wider than others, and some speakers have a tweeter that protrudes farther than another speaker of the same size (6.5" to 6.5" for example).

in the type S the stock speakers are sitting in a black plastic baffle. you can either choose to use or discard this item. some speakers will not fit in the baffel because the speaker is deeper than the baffle is. this can be fixed by using a cutting insterment and cutting the back panel off the baffel. other speakers are just too wide for the baffel, in this case you will either need to make or buy a baffel to fit it (that is if you choose to use a baffel)

in the Base RSX the speakers sit in baffels as well, but the speaker is built into a baffel on the base, instead of just sitting in them like on the type S. when removed you will have an odd shaped bare hole. a good deal of 6.5" speakers will not fit this area. some people have chosen to use 5.25" speakers to make it easier. others have chosen to use the 6.5" and use a baffel, or cut the hole to it is the right size. either way will work just fine.

one more problem you might encounter when mounting the speakers is that the door panel will not snap back on after putting the speakers in. this could be because of two things. 1) the tweeter is protruding too far and is hitting the stock door grill. you can either try and mount the speaker differently, or cut out the stock grill and us the ones that came with the speakers. 2) There is a raised ring around the grill on the back side of the door panel. you can cut this out with a dremel or another device to give some room.

no speaker is the same as any other. some are deeper, longer, wider, larger or just plain funny shaped. so understand that not every speaker on the market can just be dropped into the stock locations. some speakers will take some work and/or alterations to get them to fit.


Q - How do I add a capacitor to my system
A - A lovely little thread discussed this, the diagram posted will show you exactly what you need here. Personally as an installer I’d never add one these days as small gel cell batteries are better long term and cost about the same.


Q - How do I wire an amp in a type S
A - Thanks to user Kbog this is a little guide that might help.

Type-S Sub Amp Install


Philips head screwdriver
Socket set
Utility knife
Electrical tape
Tap in connecters
Wire hanger (straightened)
Wire cutters
Wire strippers


I. Running the power wire

Power wire of 4 AWG or smaller may be used for this procedure. It is possible 2 AWG may fit as well, although I didn’t use it.

Step 1 – Remove the glove compartment

A simple concept, but can be a pain due to the inconvenient screw locations. There are only 2 philips head screws which mount the box. They are on the bottom right and bottom left respectively. The right screw is easy to get at, however the left screw is under a piece of carpet molding. The bottom of the carpet molding can be pulled out and deformed enough to get your hand behind it and to the screw. After both mounting screws have been removed, lift the glove box out of the dash entirely.

Step 2 – Feed the Wire through the fire wall.

Using a light, you will see a grommet deep behind the glove box. There is a large bundle of wires passing through it already. With a straightened hanger, poke a hole through the grommet to the left of the bundle. Push the hanger at least 6 inches through the grommet. Leave the hanger through the grommet for a moment and find it in the engine compartment (left side as you face the car). You will need to slice the grommet with a blade to widen the hole for the power wire. After the hole is enlarged, tape the end of the power wire to the hanger tightly. Go back in the cabin and pull the power wire through the fire wall by pulling the hanger out.

Step 3 – Running wire to the hatch area

Feed the power wire down towards the center dash console. It will be helpful at this point to pull most of your wire through the fire wall except for the length you need to run to the car battery in the engine bay. The wire should come out of the dash behind the center console casing (behind the cup holder/power outlet molding). No need to take the console off as the wire can be pushed under the plastic and run along the passenger side between the front seats. At the back of the console (under that lone cupholder), there is a screw on either side to hold the plastic down to the floor. Remove those screws so you can feed the wire under the carpeting in the middle of the rear floor. Remove the back seat by pulling up on it on both sides. There are two clips that hold it down. This will not break them so don’t worry. After the seat is lifted, reach under the carpeting to finish feeding the wire up and under the rear seat. Any access wire can be kept under the seat cushion. Folding the seat down and removing the hatch carpet will allow you to get the wire to any location in the hatch area. Done

II. Getting a signal

Step 1. Take apart Richbass Woofer

Remove carpeting and foam board in hatch area to expose the spare tire. Take out the spare tire wing nut which passes directly through the center of the richbass woofer. Using a socket set (5.5 mm I believe), remove the 6 lugs from the top of the richbass woofer. The top casing should easily pull right off exposing a 5 inch “woofer” on the left and a small amp on the right.

Step 2. Tapping the signal wires.

Pull out the woofer from the frame of the sub exposing the four wires that lead to the 2 terminals. You will see 2 red wires (both positive) on one terminal and 2 green wires (both negative) on the other. I am NOT positive of the polarity, but red+ and green- worked perfectly for me. I will switch the polarity to see if I get better sound out of the sub later this week. Take off the foam tape that sticks the wires together so you can get some separation of the wires. Using tap in connectors (found at any radio shack) and 16 gauge speaker wire, you can splice into the signal here. I used a 5 ft. length of speaker wire for the 2 red wires and another 5 ft. length for the 2 green wires. You should NOT have to disconnect the woofer at any point during this procedure. You now have a pair of negative wires from one speaker wire (copper/silver) and a pair of positive from the other.

Step 3. Tapping the remote lead.

There is an orange wire which runs to the small amplifier in the richbass setup. Use a tap in connector on this wire as well to run a remote lead to the amp. My amplifier did NOT require this however as the amp senses voltage at the high level terminals to turn itself on. Put the woofer back together with the connectors under the woofer housing and seal the ricbass back up.

III. Final touches

Step 1. Ground your amp.

You can ground your amp at any bolt which attaches to the frame of the vehicle. If you fold the back seat down (either side) there is a large bolt towards the side of the car which faces the rear seat. I grounded my amp to this bolt. Make sure to use the same gauge wire as the power wire.

Step 2. Attach amp wires

Run the negative high level wires you created to the respective negative high level input terminals on your amplifier. Do the same for your positive wires. Connect your ground and power wires to your amplifier. Connect amplifier to subwoofer.

Step 3. Attach power wire to battery.

Remove ground from battery first. Then remove the positive terminal. Connect power wire to positive terminal and reconnect terminal to battery. Reconnect ground to battery.

Step 4. Enter code for radio.

You should have a card that was given to you when you bought the car. The radio will require the 5 digit code before it turns on again. Enter the code.

Step 5. Fix the drivers side window.

The auto feature will not work immediately. Push the button all the way down and hold it for five seconds after the window is fully down. Pull the button all the way up and hold it for five seconds after the window is up. Auto feature should work again.


Q: To optima or not to optima?
A: Check here


Q: Where can I find info on capacitors and stuff?
A: Check here my friend...


Q: Am i Getting Cancelation?
A: this is a good thread that talkes about cancelation and some misconceptions. Click Here


Q: what are the needed wires for an alarm install?
A: Muxx was kind enough to give us the propper wires for an alarm install. read it in this thread


Q: Crap! I disconnnected my drivers side window controls to install speakers, and now the auto up/down won't work!
A: relax. Push the auto window down and hold for 2 seconds after the window is down. Roll the window up, and hold the auto up controller for 2 seconds. Repeat the process for both up and down, and now your window is calibrated and should go up and down auto fine.


Q: I want the fog lights to stay on when the parking lights are on and not turn off when the highbeams are engaged. How do I do this?
A: Fear no more... detailed instructions are HERE


Q: I want full control of my Air Conditioning and don't want the AC on for defog. Is there a way to disable this?
A: Yes. Check this out


Q: I want to put in a fuel cut off switch, but where do I wire it?
A: Diagram to do so is located here: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread...=1#post3488219


Q: Is there a way to add an AUX to the Bose system?
A: Yes: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=547118


Q: What fuses are associated with audio and security?
A: #9, #14, And #20 under hood, #8 and #15 underdash


Q: Where can I get test tones to set my gain?
A:Tone Generator for building test tones:


Q: How do I fix engine noise problems?
A: Good info here : http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=276290


What’s the deal with running no rear speakers?
Great thread explaining it here: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=516794


Think another question/post should be added to the FAQ? PM or email me (Locotony) and I'll add it on!

Good Practices and Advice
1. Save all your damn paperwork! Receipts, warranty cards, etc. This is your only way to prove that you're legit for warranty work.
2. Motorized headunits (faceplates fold down by motor) tend to wear over 18 months with heavy use. It's a good idea to purchase an extended warranty coverage plan for them. A 3-year extended warranty should run for about $50 on a HU that costs $250-350.
3. Always buy with a credit card. Not only because you're covered for fraud, but because you're also covered by the credit cards 90 day breakage, theft, lost insurance. Plus you'll always have a record of the transaction on your credit card.
4. Spending $30 more to buy from a reputable dealer than a no-name one is generally a good idea
5. Always read the damn FAQ before posting or PM'ing the mods.
Car Audio, Security, & Electronics Moderator
2014 CBP Civic Si Coupe
Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3
Illusion Audio Carbon C6 Comps
Precision Power Phantom 900.4 and 1000.1
2 - 12 inch Acoustic Elegance IB12AU Subs
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