You should ALWAYS bypass the Bose amp....here's why

[kenneth_1010]

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BjbH5Gd...g-Harness.html

After you get the Harness, Reset the HU Again. Been through this lol

[sparky.engr]

Doesn't this bypass procedure make you stop using the factory sub?

[sparky.engr]

Originally Posted by sparky.engr

Doesn't this bypass procedure make you stop using the factory sub?

On further reading, I see that yes, it does disconnect the sub amp, thus doesn't use the sub.

I also found miztahsparklez's method of bypassing the amp only for the speakers, so you still use it for the sub. BUT...doesn't that result in using already amplified signals (which drive the speakers) as inputs to the front amp, thus amplifying the signal to the sub twice (in HU and rear amp), resulting in too much bass, and potentially damaging the sub?

It seems to me that the right way to do it would be to bypass the front amp, and run a new cable from the preamp sub output on the HU to the rear/sub amp. You'd have to rig up another harness for that. Right?

[eldcCinco]

i followed the diagram below but for some reason my front left speaker doesn't work. all the others do. i noticed that the front left speaker requires for you to splice the ban and Lt Grn together but i saw two browns and two Lt GRN's one with a gray dot on it.

[shoegazer]

There shouldn't be two of any color. One is likely a tan (?) and the other is tan with a different color stripe. The stripe can be hard to see.

[TTercel]

I am also having issues with the front right speaker (driver's) speaker as no sound is coming from it. Are there any solutions to this as I see a couple people had this problem.

After work I will check the wiring based upon there being two BRN and two LT GRN wires to see if I used to correct ones.

[TTercel]

SOLVED: I used the wrong light green wire.

[miztahsparklez]

Originally Posted by sparky.engr

On further reading, I see that yes, it does disconnect the sub amp, thus doesn't use the sub.

I also found miztahsparklez's method of bypassing the amp only for the speakers, so you still use it for the sub. BUT...doesn't that result in using already amplified signals (which drive the speakers) as inputs to the front amp, thus amplifying the signal to the sub twice (in HU and rear amp), resulting in too much bass, and potentially damaging the sub?

It seems to me that the right way to do it would be to bypass the front amp, and run a new cable from the preamp sub output on the HU to the rear/sub amp. You'd have to rig up another harness for that. Right?

The side effect of amping the signal twice is that the bass is that much louder. Believe me, the little Bose sub thumped well on its way when it was wired this way. Will it blow eventually? Maybe... At that point it would be worth doing aftermarket.

They make a harness that uses your low level signal and feeds it to the Bose amp. The result is the same poor sound that you had before.


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[InZain08]

I hate to beat a dead horse but I'm going to be doing this in a few days and just want to make sure I have the correct procedure:

7 | RED | Audio unit - Right Rear (-)
14 | BLU/YEL | Right Rear Speaker (-)

9 | BLK | Audio unit - Left Rear (-)
13 | BLU/BLK | Left Rear Speaker (-)

15 | PNK | Right Rear Speaker (+)
20 | YEL | Audio Unit - Right Rear (+)

22 | WHT | Audio unit - Left Rear (+)
12 | BLU/ WHT | Left Rear Speaker (+)

21 | ORN | Audio unit - Right Front (+)
2 | GRN/YEL | Passenger's Door Speaker (+), Right weeter (+)

8 | GRN | Audio unit - Right Front (-)
1 | GRY/RED | Passenger's Door Speaker (-), Right tweeter (-)

23 | BLU | Audio unit - Left Front (+)
26 | GRN/BLK | Driver's Door Speaker (+), Left Tweeter (+)

10 | BRN | Audio unit - Left Front (-)
25 | LT GRN | Left Tweeter (-) drivers door speaker (-)

[shoegazer]

this worked for me

[InZain08]

Thank you, Shoegazer

[Shakrath]

Nice, thanks for sharing it. I will gladly check it out.

[yaggs]

adding to the longest thread ever.... I'm going to attempt to use the integration harness (first) to connect my HU (Alpine UTE-62BT) to everything else stock.

Questions:

1)If that produces noise then why can't I just unplug the RCAs and do the bypass? It looks like the 70-1725 harness just splices the existing speaker wires at the harness level. If i just unplug the RCAs, won't that effectively change the 70-1725 into a 70-1721?

2)If the bypass should need to occur, can I use RCAs on my stock sub to aquire HU control. Could I do this at the line input at the sub in the trunk (lgt-grn/grn-wht). Or would this not be a strong enough signal since it would normally get its signal from the amp?

3)If that method of signal is too weak... could I splice the ends of the RCA outputs from the HU into the chopped wires coming out of the under seat amp input lines (4+ and 4-)? It makes sense to me that this would create the perfect signal strength and give you complete sub control from the HU.

TIA

[ceerod23]

Stick to the 70-1721, just have to do remote amp turn on, RCA will lower vol because that's a low input
for a woofer use RCA out, if you're going aftermarket woofer

Originally Posted by yaggs

adding to the longest thread ever.... I'm going to attempt to use the integration harness (first) to connect my HU (Alpine UTE-62BT) to everything else stock.

Questions:

1)If that produces noise then why can't I just unplug the RCAs and do the bypass? It looks like the 70-1725 harness just splices the existing speaker wires at the harness level. If i just unplug the RCAs, won't that effectively change the 70-1725 into a 70-1721?

2)If the bypass should need to occur, can I use RCAs on my stock sub to aquire HU control. Could I do this at the line input at the sub in the trunk (lgt-grn/grn-wht). Or would this not be a strong enough signal since it would normally get its signal from the amp?

3)If that method of signal is too weak... could I splice the ends of the RCA outputs from the HU into the chopped wires coming out of the under seat amp input lines (4+ and 4-)? It makes sense to me that this would create the perfect signal strength and give you complete sub control from the HU.

TIA

[yaggs]

Originally Posted by ceerod23

Stick to the 70-1721, just have to do remote amp turn on, RCA will lower vol because that's a low input
for a woofer use RCA out, if you're going aftermarket woofer

Trying to maintain stock woofer, why wouldn't #3 in my list correct the "low input" issue?

[ceerod23]

Before I bypassed my stock amp, I used the Speaker wires into the harness, and maintained stock woofer (Bose amp filters signals automatically), Vol was low, so if you spice RCA into the factory amp, it will be an even lower signal caused by the RCA output being a lower one to begin with, that's just my personal experience.

Originally Posted by yaggs

Trying to maintain stock woofer, why wouldn't #3 in my list correct the "low input" issue?

[tothearkdc5]

Old thread but found this when looking into this issue, going to order it and give it a shot
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...9K72U9P2&psc=1

[miztahsparklez]

Originally Posted by tothearkdc5

Old thread but found this when looking into this issue, going to order it and give it a shot
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...9K72U9P2&psc=1

Yeah that's not gonna do what this thread accomplishes... It works for sure, but you are not going to get the high quality direct sound from your upgraded HU

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[dave_]

Any idea why there would be no sound at all? Not just low sound, I mean zero audio coming from the speakers. I wired up my aftermarket head unit last night and turned the key just to make sure it turned on and everything. It did as it should, and I could even hear some very light static through the speakers. Today I did the amp bypass exactly as described in all the instructions, and now I have no sound. Not even static. This is just really strange to me, I was expecting maybe one speaker not to work. But no sound at all has me dumbfounded. Let me know what you guys think, sorry for reviving the longest thread ever.