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Old Today, 03:16 AM   #26
Burst_Craft
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Originally Posted by TheRickster View Post
Any idea what tie rods you're going to be running? Found out at the alignment shop today I'll need shorter ones to get anywhere near 2.5 camber even.
The shell happened to have Davinci rods from the prior owner so we'll at least be starting with those paired with a Tegiwa rack riser. As far as camber specs, I speculate we'll need somewhere in the 3-3.5 range for what tracks we run vs our projected tire spec but all that'll have to get figured out once we have all the new control arms and such in and really start doing the fine tuning geometry work.

On the old car before the accident, we pulled only -2 up front with maybe like 3 of caster and that maxed out the OEM rods to go back to 0 of toe at 1 finger gap with 235/45r17 (for whatever ride height reference you can make from those figures to compare to your own).

I'd consider either a rack riser and OEM rods for your setup and see if that helps or consider an inverted tie rod setup albeit at the potential risk of it dropping out or hitting part of the chassis (vs the original manner of over-arm mounted vs the inverted setup being under-arm). Davinci rods used to be a good solution as well but I don't think he makes them or if he still does, they're in very spaced out batches.
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Old Today, 03:42 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Burst_Craft View Post
The shell happened to have Davinci rods from the prior owner so we'll at least be starting with those paired with a Tegiwa rack riser. As far as camber specs, I speculate we'll need somewhere in the 3-3.5 range for what tracks we run vs our projected tire spec but all that'll have to get figured out once we have all the new control arms and such in and really start doing the fine tuning geometry work.

On the old car before the accident, we pulled only -2 up front with maybe like 3 of caster and that maxed out the OEM rods to go back to 0 of toe at 1 finger gap with 235/45r17 (for whatever ride height reference you can make from those figures to compare to your own).

I'd consider either a rack riser and OEM rods for your setup and see if that helps or consider an inverted tie rod setup albeit at the potential risk of it dropping out or hitting part of the chassis (vs the original manner of over-arm mounted vs the inverted setup being under-arm). Davinci rods used to be a good solution as well but I don't think he makes them or if he still does, they're in very spaced out batches.
You can still get the todd's tie rods from his site, but not sure if you have to wait for a certain number before he makes them.

Also J's racing and ktuned sell the shorter adjustable ones.

I'm comparing the 3 to see which to go with. I probably won't do a rack riser just because of the install/time. I'm in an apartment and don't have access to too much in the way of garage space.
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Old Today, 03:52 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by TheRickster View Post
You can still get the todd's tie rods from his site, but not sure if you have to wait for a certain number before he makes them.

Also J's racing and ktuned sell the shorter adjustable ones.

I'm comparing the 3 to see which to go with. I probably won't do a rack riser just because of the install/time. I'm in an apartment and don't have access to too much in the way of garage space.
If you can't get the Davinci ones or at least can't get them quickly, I'd opt with K-tuned just for the sake of them at least being stateside and you being able to communicate with them should an issue ever arise.

The rack riser actually isn't too bad to install if you're willing to do a bit of bodily contorting to fit between the motor and the firewall. Worst case scenario, a shop could also install it and then align the car. The riser also does more than fix the toe as it will also flatten the tie rod arms back to OEM levels which will reduce bump steer.

A bit of an off topic yet related question but what coilovers are you running? I ask since some companies like BC Racing's extreme low setup offer coilovers with flat steering arms vs the OEM arm style that slopes up. I figured that would also be a waaaaaaay more expensive option than some ~$150 inner tie rods though.
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Old Today, 11:13 PM   #29
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I'm using the regular BC Racing BR Type. Swift springs and custom rates. So looks like I'll be getting new tie rods. The J's Racing ones include I think regular ends, while the ktuned ones are endless, but they also make a set which includes spherical ends.

Thoughts on spherical vs regular? I feel like it's overkill for me. lol I don't have anything else spherical on the car atm.
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Old Today, 11:27 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRickster View Post
I'm using the regular BC Racing BR Type. Swift springs and custom rates. So looks like I'll be getting new tie rods. The J's Racing ones include I think regular ends, while the ktuned ones are endless, but they also make a set which includes spherical ends.

Thoughts on spherical vs regular? I feel like it's overkill for me. lol I don't have anything else spherical on the car atm.
Tighter tolerances in the spherical will give a more direct feel but require maintenance (mainly just inspections and cleaning/lubing). If you're doing mainly street/daily driving, just go regular sealed joint end but if it's sort of a weekend warrior or dedicated track build or you're willing to keep an eye on the sphericals, then they're the more performance oriented option. Just really look at what the car mainly does the most and go from there. Obviously also consider if you'd be willing to give those rods a quick look-at every oil change if you go spherical and you'll be happy with those but there's also no loss for street driving if you stay regular/OEM.
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