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Old 11-20-2018, 02:16 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by TheRickster View Post
Any idea what tie rods you're going to be running? Found out at the alignment shop today I'll need shorter ones to get anywhere near 2.5 camber even.
The shell happened to have Davinci rods from the prior owner so we'll at least be starting with those paired with a Tegiwa rack riser. As far as camber specs, I speculate we'll need somewhere in the 3-3.5 range for what tracks we run vs our projected tire spec but all that'll have to get figured out once we have all the new control arms and such in and really start doing the fine tuning geometry work.

On the old car before the accident, we pulled only -2 up front with maybe like 3 of caster and that maxed out the OEM rods to go back to 0 of toe at 1 finger gap with 235/45r17 (for whatever ride height reference you can make from those figures to compare to your own).

I'd consider either a rack riser and OEM rods for your setup and see if that helps or consider an inverted tie rod setup albeit at the potential risk of it dropping out or hitting part of the chassis (vs the original manner of over-arm mounted vs the inverted setup being under-arm). Davinci rods used to be a good solution as well but I don't think he makes them or if he still does, they're in very spaced out batches.
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Old 11-20-2018, 02:42 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Burst_Craft View Post
The shell happened to have Davinci rods from the prior owner so we'll at least be starting with those paired with a Tegiwa rack riser. As far as camber specs, I speculate we'll need somewhere in the 3-3.5 range for what tracks we run vs our projected tire spec but all that'll have to get figured out once we have all the new control arms and such in and really start doing the fine tuning geometry work.

On the old car before the accident, we pulled only -2 up front with maybe like 3 of caster and that maxed out the OEM rods to go back to 0 of toe at 1 finger gap with 235/45r17 (for whatever ride height reference you can make from those figures to compare to your own).

I'd consider either a rack riser and OEM rods for your setup and see if that helps or consider an inverted tie rod setup albeit at the potential risk of it dropping out or hitting part of the chassis (vs the original manner of over-arm mounted vs the inverted setup being under-arm). Davinci rods used to be a good solution as well but I don't think he makes them or if he still does, they're in very spaced out batches.
You can still get the todd's tie rods from his site, but not sure if you have to wait for a certain number before he makes them.

Also J's racing and ktuned sell the shorter adjustable ones.

I'm comparing the 3 to see which to go with. I probably won't do a rack riser just because of the install/time. I'm in an apartment and don't have access to too much in the way of garage space.
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Old 11-20-2018, 02:52 AM   #28
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You can still get the todd's tie rods from his site, but not sure if you have to wait for a certain number before he makes them.

Also J's racing and ktuned sell the shorter adjustable ones.

I'm comparing the 3 to see which to go with. I probably won't do a rack riser just because of the install/time. I'm in an apartment and don't have access to too much in the way of garage space.
If you can't get the Davinci ones or at least can't get them quickly, I'd opt with K-tuned just for the sake of them at least being stateside and you being able to communicate with them should an issue ever arise.

The rack riser actually isn't too bad to install if you're willing to do a bit of bodily contorting to fit between the motor and the firewall. Worst case scenario, a shop could also install it and then align the car. The riser also does more than fix the toe as it will also flatten the tie rod arms back to OEM levels which will reduce bump steer.

A bit of an off topic yet related question but what coilovers are you running? I ask since some companies like BC Racing's extreme low setup offer coilovers with flat steering arms vs the OEM arm style that slopes up. I figured that would also be a waaaaaaay more expensive option than some ~$150 inner tie rods though.
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:13 PM   #29
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I'm using the regular BC Racing BR Type. Swift springs and custom rates. So looks like I'll be getting new tie rods. The J's Racing ones include I think regular ends, while the ktuned ones are endless, but they also make a set which includes spherical ends.

Thoughts on spherical vs regular? I feel like it's overkill for me. lol I don't have anything else spherical on the car atm.
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:27 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRickster View Post
I'm using the regular BC Racing BR Type. Swift springs and custom rates. So looks like I'll be getting new tie rods. The J's Racing ones include I think regular ends, while the ktuned ones are endless, but they also make a set which includes spherical ends.

Thoughts on spherical vs regular? I feel like it's overkill for me. lol I don't have anything else spherical on the car atm.
Tighter tolerances in the spherical will give a more direct feel but require maintenance (mainly just inspections and cleaning/lubing). If you're doing mainly street/daily driving, just go regular sealed joint end but if it's sort of a weekend warrior or dedicated track build or you're willing to keep an eye on the sphericals, then they're the more performance oriented option. Just really look at what the car mainly does the most and go from there. Obviously also consider if you'd be willing to give those rods a quick look-at every oil change if you go spherical and you'll be happy with those but there's also no loss for street driving if you stay regular/OEM.
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:38 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Burst_Craft View Post
Tighter tolerances in the spherical will give a more direct feel but require maintenance (mainly just inspections and cleaning/lubing). If you're doing mainly street/daily driving, just go regular sealed joint end but if it's sort of a weekend warrior or dedicated track build or you're willing to keep an eye on the sphericals, then they're the more performance oriented option. Just really look at what the car mainly does the most and go from there. Obviously also consider if you'd be willing to give those rods a quick look-at every oil change if you go spherical and you'll be happy with those but there's also no loss for street driving if you stay regular/OEM.
Ya, it's working towards being a track car and isn't my daily, but I do drive it on the street occasionally. I'm also very lazy and am not sure with my skill level i'd even appreciate the difference for the added worry and maintenance.

Thanks for all the instant replies, I appreciate it a ton.
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Old 11-20-2018, 10:45 PM   #32
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Ya, it's working towards being a track car and isn't my daily, but I do drive it on the street occasionally. I'm also very lazy and am not sure with my skill level i'd even appreciate the difference for the added worry and maintenance.

Thanks for all the instant replies, I appreciate it a ton.
You'll feel bigger gains from sphericals elsewhere for sure, but tie rods are just sort of those little pieces to complete the puzzle or solve really small "feel" issues.

I totally understand that being lazy part, I'm the same, that's why i always bring it up to people 😂haha.

And no problemo man, it's the email notifications to thank for the quick replies. The rest is just a bit of sharing info and helping. Nothing different than what I do at work except here it's more fun.
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Old 11-20-2018, 11:36 PM   #33
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I'm also debating what tie rods/ends to get. I just got bc racing extreme low coils with swift springs and they have the flat arms. I can't decide if i want to wait for devinci rods or just get the ktuned arms with spherical bushings or get hardrace setup
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Old 11-20-2018, 11:44 PM   #34
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I'm also debating what tie rods/ends to get. I just got bc racing extreme low coils with swift springs and they have the flat arms. I can't decide if i want to wait for devinci rods or just get the ktuned arms with spherical bushings or get hardrace setup
You won't need anything in terms of correction since the flat arms negate the need for shorter arms, inverted rods, etc. If you want them for extra adjustment range or better bushings, then by all means go for it, but you won't need them for anything else really.
For those arms, stay OEM length regardless of if you go Davinci, K-Tuned, Hardrace, etc.

And whatever you do, do not get inverted rods with flat arms, you need to stay OEM / OEM style or equivalent mounting style of spherical (anything that mounts to the top side vs inverted going under the arm.)
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Old 11-22-2018, 01:24 AM   #35
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I can't find any inner tie rod DIYs or walk throughs on youtube. You should totally do one if you have to take yours out.
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Old 11-22-2018, 02:38 AM   #36
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I can't find any inner tie rod DIYs or walk throughs on youtube. You should totally do one if you have to take yours out.
It's pretty straight forward outside of a bit of bending and such plus it also depends if you're just changing the tie rods on-car or removing the rack and then doing it all outside the car (for those doing things like EPS swaps, fixing leaks, etc.) I'll see what I can do for either situation though.
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Old 12-13-2018, 05:33 PM   #37
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So a bit of an update to check back in with everyone and show some progress. I've been busy prepping my Miata for the 2019 time attack season (aero, minor maintenance/upgrade, etc.) so the RSX has just been sitting for a bit.

EPS was supposed to go in over the past few weeks but after doing the rebuild, I figured I was only going to have the rack out once so better do everything now and so because of that, we're designing some higher durometer rack bushings to replace the OEM rubber ones that slowly deteriorate over time. That being said, once those are in, the rack will be in and that's the last I have to deal with it until wiring in the EPS.

Now onto the more fun part of the update. I'm sure plenty of you know of Jose / Circuit Dreams and his RSX. He's been a buddy of mine for some time, so I like to pester him from time to time when I want some cool, unique stuff. Soooooooooooo....

I couldn't have just two carbon fiber panels in the dash, I needed everything to be CF.

Pardon the blue film on some of the pieces as this is just to protect them until they're permanently fixed in place.







Thank you again, Jose. I love these little bits that help make the dash just that much more complete.

Hopefully I'll be able to give you guys some more updates in the coming weeks as I tend to get more free time around the holidays, so hopefully it also means more RSX work. As always, thanks for stopping by. Check our Youtube updates if you'd like to see some of this but in video form, and yeah, enjoy!
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Old 12-14-2018, 12:12 AM   #38
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i wantttt those two center pieces lol
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